by Jimmy Tobias
Sigrun Kuefner stands behind the petite cheese counter at the Good Food Store with a quite grandmotherly grin, aware, perhaps, that she is one of Missoula’s premier cheesemongers. A purveyor of fine washed-rind stinkers, stretched-curd quesos and Alpine tommes, her vague European accent (German) evokes images of Old World monasteries where habit-wearing monks in the Middle Ages praised God by perfecting the cow milk concoctions that we enjoy today.
“Cheese to me is healthy, unless you eat too much of it,” says Kuefner, a cheese stocker. “It should give you pleasure, especially after a hard day at work.”
Cheese on the cheap: Maybe the best thing about the GFS counter is that they cut their wallet-busting selection into small pieces so students and ski bums can afford an occasional taste. And you can always ask for a free sample. “If you ever go into a cheese shop and they say you can’t have a sample, turn around and walk away,” says Jennie Gregory, who is the cheese buyer at GFS. In other words, that’s something you’ll never hear from Kuefner.
Who moved your cheese: Find Kuefner at the Good Food Store, 1600 S. Third Street.
Hangriest Hour serves up fresh details on western Montana eats. To recommend a restaurant, dish or chef for Hangriest Hour, email firstname.lastname@example.org.